Wales! Home of big hills, copious quantities of sheep, breathtaking views and epic day rides to remember!
This article / review is the first in a series of three, featuring what I think are some of the best rides in Wales. This article covers the 23 mile ride in the hills around Machynlleth, just south of the Dovey Valley. Other rides will include epics from the Brecon Beacons and the Black Mountains.
This route is derived from the "South Of Dovey Valley" route guide which featured in MBR No.36 (March 2000) however it has been adapted very slightly to make it the ride to do in the area. Although this version of the ride begins in the hills, an alternative is to begin in Machynlleth.
| Physical | Technical | Fun | Scenery | Singletrack | Rideability |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **** | **** | ***** | ***** | *** | **** |
Machynlleth is an ideal stop for lunch with cafés, pubs, bakeries and shops to suit most tastes otherwise there is nothing on the ride.
Get out a highlighter, and Landranger no.135, and mark out the following waypoints.
| Location | Grid Ref | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Road Junction / Parking Location | 723909 | ||
| Hilltop Crossroads | 732912 | ||
| End of shale Track | 734932 | ||
| Forest edge Gate | 737951 | ||
| Cefn Coch Farm | 742960 | ||
| Glaspwll | 738975 | ||
| Road Junction | 740989 | ||
| Machynlleth Clock Tower | 746008 | ||
| Minor Road / A487 | 728997 | ||
| Road Junction | 740989 | ||
| Path Crossroads | 752976 | ||
| Forest Edge | 766958 | ||
| Gate | 767944 | ||
| Track Junction | 768923 | ||
| Hyddgen | 777909 | ||
| End of Valley | 754905 | ||
| Hilltop Crossroads | 732912 | ||
| Road Junction | 723909 | ||
| Total distance 23 miles | Riding time 5 hours | ||
We began the route at a junction of the minor road that runs between Tal-y-bont and Ponterwyd and the track which leads into the forest by Banc Bwlchygarreg (GR 723909) at which point there is space for parking about 2 cars but no more as it is a main entrance road to the forest for the logging lorries.
The route starts of easily from this point climbing gradually up the wide track towards the forest. On reaching the crossroads of tracks at the top of the hill (GR 732912), you will then need to turn left in the direction of the forest and descend on the fire road, continue straight on at the next crossroads in the forest. Take the left when you see a gate ahead, up a short slope to the dam of Llyn Conach. Cross the dam and pick your way around to the right on a rough track, which gradually becomes more visible before becoming a rough shale track. After about ˝ a mile you should reach a fire road (GR 734932) at which point you should take it to the right as far as a dead end turning circle. Just on your left at this point there is a very steep narrow track down into the trees that you must follow, bearing around to the right.
At the time I rode this route it was clear that mountain bikers had been here before me as there were obvious tyre tracks to follow, however once you drop down off the fire road there is a maze of tracks going in all directions, so it may be wise to take a compass jut in case you find yourself on the wrong path. As you follow this path through the trees it becomes more like a tunnel of trees, before you finally reach a gate at the edge of the forest looking out over the valley. Another point of note is that this section of path was (officially) closed at the time we rode and a diversion was in place which it may be advisable to take if logging is in progress during your ride. The recommended diversion was taking the path straight ahead at the end of the shale path (GR 735933) follow this until a crossing of paths at GR 728936 where you will turn right until you rejoin the main path just outside the gate at the end of the tunnel of trees at GR 737951.
On reaching the edge of the forest (GR 737951) bear left to begin with before beginning to drop down gradually to the right on the on a track that follows the line of a old wall, eventually the path should veer right and down the hillside steeply towards the farm at the bottom. If you miss this it is possible to continue riding to GR 738963 where you can follow a wide track down to the farm. Descend along the farm track down to Glaspwll (GR 738975).
Follow the road around to GR 740989 where you should take the road that climbs steeply towards Machynlleth. When riding this route, just as we were embarking on this hill, a woman coming down the hill said to me "Nice steep hill!" or words to that effect. At this point I commented to my riding partner that she obviously hasn't seen a hill before as at this stage it was easy going. 5 Minutes later at the top of what was a long and reasonably steep hill, I took that back! A pleasant descent followed down to the A487, which we joined to ride as far as the Clock Tower in Machynlleth.
Lunch from a local bakery was enjoyed under the shadow of the imposing clock tower before we had to make a move back into the hills.
As you may have noticed there was very little climbing on the first leg of the journey, the return journey is quite the opposite! This time follow the A487 along the valley as far as GR 728997 where you should turn off to your left along a pleasant streamside road. Where the road forks after about ˝ mile, take the left fork down into the valley to a familiar junction where you should continue straight on to the gate up ahead (GR 740989). Go through the gate where the climbing begins. Ride up to a farmyard and follow the main track on, gradually climbing as you go around the hill. After some time you should descend across a field on the defined track you have been following to a gate at the bottom at which point you may be greeted with a lively herd of cattle! Go through the gate and up the hill on an indistinct path leading through a further gate and eventually up to a path crossroads on the corner of a wood. You should now be at Grid Reference 752976.
Go straight ahead keeping the wood to your right, go straight across at the next crossing of paths before riding through a section of forest up to a high point after which you should descend gradually to the edge of another forest at GR 766958. Do not enter the forest at this point, but climb up alongside the forest to a junction with at path blocked by a gate. Enter the forest at this point and ride up the shale path to a clearing about ˝ mile after you entered the forest, at this point you should have superb views to the East. From here on the shale path bends round to the right and becomes too steep to ride, for me anyway! This is a long hard climb, but after the 10 to 15 minute carry/push that it takes you will be greeted by rewarding views of the valleys below (for those doing this ride in the rain, snow, mist or fog ignore the previous comment).
The real hard work is now over and now you'll need to enjoy the ride while it lasts with only about 6 miles left! After passing through the gate at the top of the long climb (GR 767944) you will just need to stick to the path you are on as it winds around the top of the cliffs. Ensure you don't end up in Hafodwnog. Continue parallel to the edge of the forest on your left until just before it comes to an end where you should continue straight ahead on a small path crossing open land as the main track descends into the forest (GR 768923). Don't take the turning to your right but continue on until after a short distance there is a track crossing the small valley to your left. Follow this track down into the valley and up the other side before skirting the edge of Bryn Moel and descending to the farm buildings at Hyddgen (GR 777909). Just before reaching the buildings, take a small singletrack path goes off to the right following the line of the stream uphill. When riding along this path you should find yourself heading West and after about a mile the valley becomes quite deep and narrow with some tricky singletrack. On reaching the end of the valley, a wider track and a larger river (GR 754905), turn right and pass some old quarry workings. Ford the river and you should reach a gate, perhaps locked. At this point cross the gate and continue along this forestry road for about a mile and a half, passing logging sites and mine workings, until you reach the top of the hill and also the top of the forest track where you started the route (GR 732912). Continue on this track down to the road where you should find your car waiting for you.
This is a fantastic ride in an area which is not recognised for mountain biking but should be. In the huge expanse of space between Devils Bridge in the South and Machynlleth in the North there is an area of about 350 square miles of top notch riding including Hafren Forest, Glyndwr's Way and of course the area all around this ride. If there is anything that will make me go back to Wales in a hurry it is this area. All I can say is get out there and ride it, there is so much to discover.
Last Updated 05-09-2000
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