Cumbria and Durham - Tyne Tees Roller Coaster
By Julian Thomas

Starting by crossing the South Tyne near its source, this route takes you on a roller coaster of a ride through some of the most spectacular scenery in the North Pennines. You will cross the River Tees in two places before returning to the South Tyne valley. Whilst involving two lengthy tarmac sections, they do take the pain out of the steepest climbs, but still leave this ride very definitely in the 'Hardcore' category. Be prepared to get wet - there are more fords here than in Detroit!

Whatever time of year this ride is attempted you will be well advised to take due note of MMB's (November 99 Issue) article regarding survival equipment. It crosses some of the highest moors in England where the weather can catch out even the most experienced.

Whilst the route is circular and can be tackled in either direction there are two very good reasons for tackling it in the direction described. Firstly two very long and steep hill climbs will be eased by the blacktop, leaving you to enjoy the down hills off road. Secondly and more importantly you will approach High Cup Nick from the East. The effect of the sudden change in scenery on arrival at the 'Nick' leaves most first time visitors gob smacked. If you dare, stand at the head of the valley, near (but not too near) the very edge of the precipice. Look straight ahead to the Lake District many miles to the West then look straight down, almost as far, to the bottom of the valley, where the sheep look like tiny balls of cotton wool. Not for the faint hearted.

You will experience every type of terrain. Fast rolling tracks near Cow Green Reservoir and at the head of the South Tyne Valley. Deep peat bog sections (mercifully short) between Grain Beck and Maize Beck that can swallow a whole bike complete with rider in wet conditions. There are rocky sections that will leave all but the very talented walking, and there are also technical parts that serve to improve the bike riding skills at every level. Small timber bridges constructed over the wet peat sections and interlaced with narrow rocky paths and stone slabs will get you retracing your steps again and again until you get that clean run.

Caldron Snout is an added bonus. Take a break to have a bit of a clamber around. The Tees is forced through a narrow channel in the hard Whin Sill rocks, whilst at the same time falling some 50 metres to join Maize Beck at the bottom of the falls. Before Cow Green Dam was constructed and the flow of water regulated, the 'Snout' in flood was an awesome sight. Even now the walk down the side of the falls is bracing to say the least.

There are numerous watercourses to ford on the ride, the size of which will depend upon recent weather conditions; many of the smaller ones will be dry in the summer months. The most significant crossing is of Maize Beck and care must be taken. Whilst the water is not generally deep, the current is deceptively strong and the riverbed conditions are difficult. If in any doubt whatsoever cross by the bridge further upstream, the consequences of taking a swim at the ford do not bear consideration.

The route can be started and finished at any convenient point but Garrigill or Dufton would seem to be the most obvious. Wherever you choose, completing this ride will give you a great deal of satisfaction and introduce you to some of the most spectacular parts of the North Pennine wilderness.

Physical Technical Fun Scenery Singletrack Rideability
***** ***** ***** ***** **** ****

Where's the Café then?

The only refreshments on the route are at Garrigill, Dufton or Knock.

Garrigill:
Accommodation at B&B's and bunk houses at both Garrigill and Alston. The George and Dragon gives all cyclists a friendly welcome as it sits right on the C2C route. Plenty of good food and drink for all.

Dufton:
Dufton is superb, in fact it is a MTB'ers dream come true. The local shop does teas & cakes, there is cheap accommodation in the forms of a Youth Hostel, a caravan/campsite and several B&B's. Also check out the very friendly Stag Inn, serving tea, coffee and hot food as well as the more usual types of liquid refreshment. If somebody opens a good bike shop - sell up and move in.

Knock:
Sorry - didn't stop.

Other Useful Information

Nearest Towns:
Alston or Penrith and their tourist information offices can be contactecd on the following numbers: Alston TIC 01434 381696 & Penrith TIC 01768 867466

Access to the ride by car:
From the West of the Pennines get to J40 on M6 and take the A686 for Alston. Cross Hartside (you will know it when you start climbing it) and follow the A686 down almost into Alston and look for signs on your right to Garrigill.
From the East of the Pennines get to Newcastle and take the A69 to Haydon Bridge and then the A686 to Alston. Follow signs at Alston to Garrigill.

Access by Public Transport:
There are buses to Alston from Hexham and Penrith, which are also the nearest rail links. Make sure they will take your bike before you travel. Bike from Alston to Garrigill.

Radical Alternative!
However if you want to really rock, start at Whitehaven or Workington and take the C2C route for 70 or 80 miles to Garrigill. Stop the night and do this route the next day. Then finish the C2C to Sunderland or Newcastle on the third day, getting the train back to your starting point. A radical long weekend for MTB'ers and no mistake.

Markers Pens at the Ready

You will need Landranger 91 for this ride and may find Landranger 87 useful although not essential.

The grid references and brief directions can be found on a printable route card by clicking here to Download the Excel File containing this information.
Distance Riding Time
36.8 miles / 59.32km6 - 8 hours

Ride the Roller Coaster

The route straddles Landranger 87 (Hexham and Haltwhistle) and 91 (Appleby-in-Westmorland Area) but the section on 87 is so short you will be able to manage with just the one map if you start and finish at Garrigill.

  1. Start in Garrigill at the George and Dragon and take the off road C2C route (signed) across the South Tyne behind the pub and up Snappers Hill track to join the B6277 road. If the crossing of the South Tyne is flooded take the C2C road alternative which also joins the B6277 but via a slightly longer route. Both involve very steep climbs!
  2. Turn right onto the B6277 and grind up hill to the top at Yad Moss where you will pass from Cumbria into Durham. Cross a cattle grid and start looking for a track on the right hand side that is signed as a footpath.
  3. Take the track and enjoy a good down hill romp on easy rolling terrain via Backside Fell to the car park at the Cow Green Reservoir view point.
  4. Follow the Nature Trail out of the car park and join the tarmac single width road that swoops down to the top of Caldron Snout below Cow Green Dam.
  5. Cross the Tees for the first time and take the Pennine Way bridleway (signed) to Birkdale Farm and Grain Beck. Keep on the well-marked Pennine Way, which skirts the 'Danger Area' over Rasp Hill and back down towards Maize Beck.
  6. Ford Maize Beck still on the Pennine Way. The official ford is marked by two short stone posts set in the ground at either side of the beck. They are easily missed but crossings can be made at various points on the beck depending upon the water flow.
  7. If Maize Beck is in flood, go to the bridge at map reference NY749271. If in any doubt use the bridge.
  8. Having crossed Maize Beck at ford or bridge follow the Pennine Way slightly uphill onto High Cup Plain and get your first view of the spectacular High Cup Nick.
  9. Take the well-worn path to the North side of the 'Nick' and follow it all the way down hill (very technical single-track and then fast downhill) turning right at bottom into Dufton.
  10. Take the road out of Dufton for Knock and after passing through the village lookout for the turning on the right signed for 'Knock Christian Centre'. Start climbing and keep climbing (and then climb an awful lot more) on the surfaced bridle way until you get to the gate across the road near the 'golf ball'.
  11. Ignore the Pennine Way sign, and turn right off the road through a gate and onto a rough track that joins and follows the course of Trout Beck. Follow the beck all the way to its confluence with the Tees.
  12. Cross the Tees again and turn left immediately after the bridge and head up stream for a short distance before crossing the watershed and finding the South Tyne again. Follow the Tyne all the way down to Garrigill.
  13. Garrigill. Wash the bike in the South Tyne at the bottom of Snappers Hill and then get yourself around to the George and Dragon for well earned sustenance.


Last Updated 05-09-2000
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