Four days of suffering from a typical "office virus", two of which landed over the weekend, left me feeling very bored with being indoors, and on the Sunday morning, realising that all I was fit for was sitting outside for my brews, I got out all my OS maps of the Highlands, and started "map perusing".
Having been in Oban in April this year I wanted to see if there was a way from there to Loch Etive (one gem of a loch, especially when seen from high up on the Etive Slabs, with snow on the tops in the background), and from there up Glen Kinglass heading east.
This all looked very feasible and I continued the planning as far as the A82, and then further east coming out at Loch Rannoch, through Tummel Forest to drop down to Blair Atholl, and from there up Glen Tilt into the Cairngorms, finally coming out at Braemar. Then a forest ride nearly to Balmoral to take a track up and over to Glen Muick, with views of the mighty province of winter climbing : Lochnagar.
At the end of Glen Muick I would reach Ballater, and would have to grit my teeth and put up with 42 miles of not very busy road. (I don't like roads - they give me a bad back amongst other things, or is it because you get a bit bored, you become aware of your back ache ?).
So the planning became more detailed and I referred to the little guides for walkers and mountain bikers by Peter Koch-Osborne, which I have used before on a four day circular tour from Inchree to Dalwhinnie, and return via Loch Garry and Rannoch.
There was also the problem of how to get back to my car in Oban - hence a target of Aberdeen because you can get a train from there back to Oban (albeit via Glasgow and 6¼ hours)
With the planning all done I then thought it would be good for next May ( pre-midge), but got this strong desire to try and squeeze it in before the end of October, and ended up booking a week's leave from after the week-end of when the clocks go back. So I drove up on Saturday 25th October arriving in Oban late afternoon, and taking the first B&B I came across. So here is how the trip went :-
Left Oban at 7am in light drizzle and not enough light to take a photo of the bay. I took the single track road along Glen Lonan, for 12 miles coming out at Taynuilt, and met only one car and that coming the opposite way. Many fine and docile looking Highland cattle, which seem to prefer the road to the grass. Then a right turn onto the main Oban to Tyndrum road for just one mile, then the off-road starts, and I was glad of it. A track turns left just before a bend and after 50 yards there is a vague path through an iron gate, seemingly leading nowhere, until all of a sudden you realise there is the River Awe to cross ( a big river at this stage of its journey). But the initial feeling of "Oh shit!" soon wanes when you can see that there is one of these suspended bridges across the river. It was quite tricky getting the bike down the steps at the other end of this bridge (because of the panniers and rack and extra weight).
Then quite soon after this you get onto a good solid track at first through the forest, undulating a bit, but with promising views through the trees of Loch Etive. Good riding even with the clobber on, which was not too much of a hindrance to be honest (I like travelling light and even though I had food for at least 5 days (as it turned out I probably could have gone 7 days !) my tent and stove are very light, but I had decided to buy a new 4 season sleeping bag not knowing what sort of weather I would have to contend with. This part of day one was magic, especially with the fantastic colours of the autumn leaves, and the misty views down Loch Etive. There were some stiff hills along the way, all of which I managed to ride, and I didn't meet another soul for several miles - just one farmer gave me a wave as he was going into his barn - he purposely stayed at the entrance making sure I saw him before he went in - a nice touch compared to some other farmers I've met. I stopped for energy bars and liquid whenever the engine started pointing to quarter full ( ie me), and constantly consulted my OS map - one side of the map case showed the part of the map I was on, the other side my schedule of distances between various points)
I was keen to reach Glen Kinglass, from where my track headed east, and after dropping downhill came into a little wood where there were half a dozen deer, and that was where I turned right. The air felt quite cold at this spot and I did not stay long, being keen to warm up again.
The track from here follows the River Kinglass for seven miles as far as Glenkinglass Lodge, and is pleasant and easy riding, with not very much ascent at all, but feels just as remote as the earlier miles overlooking Loch Etive. Eventually you see GlenKinglass Lodge, and soon after this the character of the ride changes as it's a question of negotiating rocky single track, all slightly uphill. A few parts of it I needed to jump off but without the weight I was carrying it would be more rideable. After some two miles I came to the wackity suspension bridge, which proved very difficult to get the bike down - still better than getting wet. Then a bit of a struggle through a bog, after which the track wends its way uphill, being a bit difficult to ride, but that bit is soon over, and it's good riding again. It was here I met my first acquaintance of the day in the form of another biker, who was going to leave his bike at the bottom of a hill and "run up a couple of hills". The track then levelled out a bit and was rideable all the way down to the bridge over the Abhainn Shira, after which it turned somewhat boggy again. I met a couple walking who had had to put their phrenetic labrador on its lead because of nearby sheep, but as I was chatting with them the crazy dissatisfied dog jumped up and knocked its very patient and tolerant owner ("he objects to being on the lead") into the bog. As communication was becoming difficult because of the barking I bade them farewell and carried on. I soon reached where a good track starts, and being very conscious ( and paranoid !) about the time and how much light was left, got going at a very steady pace, soon emerging where the West Highland Way crosses my track (Victoria Bridge). As my track was marked "Private Road" I thought I should ask at the nearby house. The kindly old lady assured me they would not mind so off I went on the north side of Loch Tulla, now having firmly decided I must think about where to camp. This is always a difficult time - trying to find just the right place to pitch your little tent…. Is the ground not too uneven, where is the water supply, and as I was also feeling very empty I had to stop to eat some chocolate, so whilst eating I was also reccying the ground but unfortunately no water supply. So helmet on and off again, always conscious of time and dusk. Only a couple of hundred yards and I found a little stream and a good spot just off the track, and well sheltered by little hillocks. Tent up, brew on, quickly followed by pasta and a tin of baked beans with slices of cheddar cheese thrown on top - magic. More brews (with sugar in), washing up the pan, more brews but this time hot chocolate (with sugar in !). Well dark and time to stretch out in my warm sleeping bag.
Whilst planning this trip I thought I would get bored being in a tiny tent for almost twelve hours with not much to do. Day one no such problem, as my body and my mind, and me for that matter were really glad to rest and recover from 37 miles of mountain biking (12 of which were road).
A cold night, bits of frost and ice on the outside of the tent, but a fine view looking down to the mist covered Loch Tulla. Anyway I was very warm in the Rab sleeping bag. Porridge with bananas and sugar and at least two or three brews with no milk but plenty of sugar. Breakfast eaten and time to pack up, and load onto the bike, ready for I don't know how many miles of pedalling over what sort of terrain and with what sort of navigational problems !
Got under way for about 9:00 am with bright sunshine but lots of creeping mist. I soon reached the A82, and turned right on it for about half a mile, before turning off east on a good track, which goes past Achallader. This track went on for six miles and was quite a good surface except for some hard uphill bits, which I still managed to ride. Eventually I reached the bothy at Gorton, and took a bit of time to look around and eat maxim bars etc. and sign the visitors book ! I knew from my pre-route planning that the next stage could be bad, even though there is a footpath sign from the bothy pointing roughly east ( to Loch Rannoch). Almost immediately from leaving the bothy whether you are on the 'path' or not is debatable, and the terrain to the east is made up of huge drumlins flanking the Water of Tulla, interspersed by huge boulders, and long tussocky grass everywhere - yuk and despair - but not quite, as my instinct suggested trying a vague track going steeply uphill to the north. This was serious pushing work and required a lot of energy. As I gained each few feet of height my feeling that this vague track led only to the top of the hill increased, and eventually I decided I should drop down again and simply "go east" surmounting whatever obstacles were in my way.
The next three miles took me two and a half hours of soul destroying pushing and carrying, and sliding into peat groughs (with the bike) then having to climb up and out the other side (with the bike !). Ahead of me and to the right lay the West Highland railway line, which I had to cross. Fortunately the fence wasn't too high, and at least I wasn't lost. But Rannoch Forest, though visible in the distance would not be easily reached. Perseverance wins the day and I eventually reached the edge of the forest and en route. In fact I had emerged from the World War One Front Line trench terrain exactly where there was a sign just pointing to where I had come from - "Footpath" or something similar, I was in no state to remember unimportant details (ps remember that in Scotland they don't distinguish between Bridleways and Footpath ), but what sticks in my mind is the detached 'coolness' of the sign indicating "It's THAT way….somewhere…". But then I had to get me and the bike over the 6 foot high deer fence. There was a gate but it was locked, so I had to unpack everything from the bike, throw it over the fence, climb up the fence, reach down for the bike, and lift it down the other side. Then pack everything back on again.
This was definitely the worst bit of the ride - on my map afterwards, at the Gorton bothy, I have written in bold red "Abandon hope all ye who try to go this way". In my pre-planning I had considered going from Victoria Bridge to Bridge of Orchy, then taking the West Highland Way south for three miles, before turning NE up the Auch Gleann to Strath Tarabhan (good track). Then to risk three miles and a bit of unknown by going along the north shore of Loch Lyon, where there is a track to Pubil, then 11 miles of minor road to Innerwick, to pick up the forest track north to come out at Carie, 3 miles west of Kinloch Rannoch.
However back to the main theme again : having surmounted the six foot high deer fence, at last I could ride again, though it was single track and very tricky, but after half a mile I reached a good forest track, which I knew from my map would take me all the way to Bridge of Gaur. But before all that, I had to stop and re-fuel, as I was definitely running on empty, and filled up on energy bars , and water containing Isostar.
Then it was away again at reasonable speeds all the way for about 9 miles, finally coming out south of Loch Rannoch at Bridge of Gaur. You don't see many people in these parts - sometimes deer, and when out of the forest cattle and sheep. Anyway I was now on the minor road running south of Loch Rannoch, where I had some twenty miles of road. More off-road was a possibility by taking forest tracks, but this would increase the mileage in an artificial way because the tracks do huge zig zags, and moreover when you come out at the other end you are not quite sure whether you can get across the river to the direction you need .
These road miles gave me considerable back-ache, which I could only alleviate by riding with one hand, the other hand twisted behind me like somebody with a broken arm ! I came out at the little village of Kinloch Rannoch, and was becoming anxious of the time - only about an hour of daylight left - must find a place to put up the tent soon. As I was north of the river (which was on my right) because of all the vegetation and swamp there was no possibility, and on the other side it was equally useless. In fading light I found a track into a forest and not wanting to be too far away from the stream (which was near the road) I tried to pitch the tent on the track about 200 yards from the road. But alas the pegs would not go in - too rocky - so I took it down and went another few hundred yards into the forest, where I found a clearing and a good spot. Tent pitched (in the dark) I now needed water so jumped on the bike precariously carrying anything I could carry water in, back to the stream. Made my evening meal and brews, lay down and rested my weary body, after about 37 miles of riding.
Not a bad night's sleep - a fairly sheltered spot. Breakfast, pack up etc. then "On the road again" or is it on the off-road again? Well a bit of road to start with (B846 north of the River Tummel) but I made a stupid mistake by turning right instead of left when leaving the forest track from my camp - I went at least two miles including a big downhill (which I had battled uphill the afternoon before) before realising my mistake. So turn around and re-trace, including having to do the uphill again - ah well, perhaps I need the exercise…(just like a hole in the head !) Only a mile and a half on the B846, then turn left on a very minor road which goes to Trinafour, but after approximately half a mile the off-road begins again - hurrah ! A track through Tummel Forest, good, fast riding for about 8 miles, then coming out of the forest through a field to a farm or homestead called Edintian on the map. Doubts here as to which way, and nobody in the house, so I had to press on. It did work out to be correct - a vague-ish track through a field which makes for another 'homestead' Tomanraid on the map - nobody in, but am now on a more recognisable track, which gets on to flattish ground - a sort of open moorland at 400 metres. When it all starts going vague again there is a single track going through the heather, and you know you are not going to get lost because you are starting to descend into Blair Atholl, and can see absolutely stunning, magical, breathtaking views of the high Cairngorms to the north - they appear high in the sky - they are big mountains, and the ride is going right into them (but not over them but through their glens). The descent to Blair Atholl gets steeper and steeper, but stay on if you have good brakes and not much brain…ahem.
Arrived in Blair Atholl at about lunch-time. In my planning I had reckoned that if I was in a bad state or the weather was horrendous then at least I could catch a train at Blair Atholl and get back to Oban. But the weather was being more than kind ! Not much wind, and temperature just about right. But there is not much time to sit around and relax when it's going dark soon after 5:15 in the afternoon. I did not find many facilities in Blair Atholl, so I made do with finding a petrol station where I could fill my fuel reserves (I was using an MSR Whisperlite petrol stove - an excellent bit of kit), buy a small tin of beans (to increase my reserves 'just in case'), and have a few drinks of tea from a vending machine, and do some minor adjustments to the Kona Explosif.
Ever onwards - north from Blair Atholl on a minor road to the Old Bridge of Tilt, then some superb riding begins all the way up Glen Tilt on a good land-rover type track. At the start the River Tilt is away on the right, but in a steep gorge, and well covered by trees, but you are aware of its presence by its forceful sound, all the time. The track crosses the river quite a few times, and eventually you leave the trees and the gorge to emerge in a wide open valley, on the track which follows the river, but with the steep hills penning the river and the track in on both sides. Every few miles there is habitation in the form of farms, but the track leads more and more into the wilderness. After something like 12 miles of riding up Glen Tilt you come to the Falls of Tarf - for me a rather bleak spot, where a forceful Tarf Water joins the River Tilt, and a plaque in memory of Francis John Bedford, aged 18, who drowned in August 1879 trying to cross the stream. Highland streams can be very dangerous to cross.
When you are on your own, in the middle of the Cairngorms, at the end of October, and it gets past 4pm in the afternoon, the anxiety level creeps up a bit (and probably rightly so). You have to seriously think about where you are going to spend the night. In my planning for this stage I had put a big red circle on the map around Geldy Bothy, thinking that would be a good place to spend the night, in comparative comfort. And I was now either consciously or sub-consciously riding harder in order to get there whilst there was still light. It could only be about 4 miles (only ! that depends entirely on the terrain, and the assumption that you don't lose the track or something.). And when you have been riding off-road for the last seven hours you obviously have to watch your energy supplies.
The riding after the Falls of Tarf becomes technical and single-track, and very life-threatening at one stretch, when you are on the single track with a lethal drop on your right , to the Allt Garbh Buidhe below. In fact the contours on the map give a hint as to its dangers. But concentration is such that it prevents you being too aware of what's on the right - but nonetheless you have to be aware, and know when to rapidly jump off the bike when the chances of a fall become too high. I got through it and emerged in a wide valley, with big hills all around, with flat stretches of smooth grass, and the stream in the middle of it all.
And then it hit me in the stomach - that very empty feeling - here comes the bonk ! And you know you have to get food in fast, so I grabbed a power bar and tried to eat it quickly, because I was more and more anxious about the time, and thinking I had to reach Geldy Bothy. After a couple of minutes I realised that I should camp right here, where I was. It was an ideal spot, good ground, dry enough, the river only a few feet away, and I had done enough for one day, and my body needed food, drink, and rest ! So that was it - decision made.
Not much daylight left so tent rapidly thrown up, and pasta on, and food in. Washing my pan in the stream in the fading light I realised how cold it was. I was soon in the sleeping bag, and making even more brews, and eating snacks. Then I was ready for some sleep (at about 6:30 in the evening !), and kept one of my water bottles in the tent so I could continue drinking when I needed it. I had a good sleep for some two and a half hours, and woke up needing a drink. I discovered however that the water bottle was well frozen ! And that was in the tent. By placing it in the sleeping bag I soon thawed it out, so I could take in more liquid. It was a perfectly clear sky, with all the stars out, and the constant sounds through the night (that is whenever I woke up) of the stags making their mating calls. At times you could have been in the middle of the Serengeti Game Park, except that is for the temperature.
I'm glad I had invested in a good sleeping bag, because even though the inside of the tent became iced up, I was perfectly warm, and got a good night's sleep.
On awaking in the morning it was a white world out there, everything was well frosted up, including my bike. And it was another cloudless sky, and I was looking forward to when the sun got high enough to thaw out my tent. There's not much advantage in being off too early - better to get as much wet off the tent to save carrying extra weight. Even so I was away soon after 9 am. After fairly pleasant riding on short cut frosted grass, I soon picked up a sandy track, about three feet wide, with enough rocks and boulders to make it interesting, but never desperate. And with the sun up, and a clear blue sky, it promised to be a good day. The highest point of the ride from Blair Atholl to Braemar is about here, some 510 metres above sea level. This is typical of Cairngorm riding - aware of big hills all around, yet the riding takes lines of least resistance. In fact you will get tougher eye-balls out sections in the Lakes or the Dales than up here, which is perhaps as well because of the gear you are carrying. After about two miles or so I reached Bynack Lodge, an old ruin where the Bynack Burn has to be crossed, but this was no problem. Another mile and Geldie Bothy was reached, after crossing the Geldie Burn, in its tame state. I went to investigate Geldie Bothy and found it fenced off with notices all around advising keeping out because of its dilapidated state. It would have been useless for shelter anyway, so I was very glad I had pitched tent when I did.
From here you join a very bouldery track, but fast riding despite that, all the way to White Bridge, where you meet the River Dee. The Scots pines here and there are magic, especially when you see deer on the hill as well. Three miles further and you meet the Linn of Dee, with signs for the tourists, and a surfaced road. So from Blair Atholl up Glen Tilt, to Linn of Dee I calculated some twenty four miles. That's a long way through brilliant country, and with equally brilliant riding. Seven miles of quiet minor road, with grand views of the Dee, and the hills to the north, take you into Braemar itself. I had thought of taking a minor road then a track on the north side of the Dee, but I wasn't sure whether the track was private, and it would have missed Braemar, where I was planning a brush with civilisation in the form of a three course lunch.
After a good lunch in a small café, I was off again. Three miles of road following the Dee, then a forest track at Bridge of Dee, into the Ballochbuie Forest. This takes you just south of Balmoral Castle itself. It is a bit tricky deciding which is the right track, when you come to some cottages and buildings, and I found a local whom I could ask. It's not too difficult, as long as you constantly check your map for confirmation of your surroundings. You take the track towards Prince Albert's Cairn, and keep going until you meet a distinct track on your right. This leads due south and soon emerges from the forest into open moorland, with the mighty Lochnagar coming into view some six miles beyond. It's now well into the afternoon, and a bit of tiredness is setting in. However there is a steady uphill for the next three miles at least, albeit on a good track. I tend to just keep going mindlessly (except that is for watching my bike computer very slowly eating up each tenth of a mile ). The highest point at 700 metres is eventually reached - Clais Rathadan according to the map, but I was interested in finding out how much of Lochnagar I could see, having read about its winter climbing epics and nearly having visited it myself when I was into winter climbing. Not much ! It's the wrong angle…or not enough light - ah well, maybe another time. My pre-planning had included the possibility of going south from Braemar picking up a track to Glen Callater, then a track from Lochallater Lodge up into the hills going over the top of Lochnagar, to reach where I now was. It always looks a lot easier when you see such a nice distinct dotted line on a map, but that tells you nothing about how passable it is (with a bike that is). I did make enquiries in an outdoor shop in Braemar and was advised against. (perhaps he doesn't like bikes ?)
By the time I had got the worst of the climb over the afternoon was passing, and the sky had clouded over. Also it was getting distinctly cooler, as I started descending into Glen Muick. Here was a visitor centre, and it all felt a bit civilised, but practically no people about. I went NE down Glen Muick, on a good track, for a mile and a bit, where I decided I could get a decent spot for my little tent, with plenty of water not far away. I was very glad of my little petrol stove, and it feels so good after riding all day to get some extra layers on, and make a welcome brew to drink whilst waiting for the evening meal. Same old same ! Pasta, pasta sauce, baked beans, cheese on top followed by hot chocolate and energy bars. This would be the last night in the tent for tomorrow I should reach Aberdeen.
A somewhat grey day saw me packing the tent, and setting off down the excellent track down Glen Muick, for some five miles, before reaching a minor road which joins the B976. I took the bridge over the Dee to go into Ballater just for an early morning look-around. And that was the end of the off-road - I just had some 42 miles of road all the way to Aberdeen. I took the quieter B976 on the south of the Dee, instead of the main A93 on the north side, and in fact I confronted hardly any traffic to speak of. There are all sorts of tracks south of the B976, and I had wondered about the possibility of getting from Glen Muick over onto the Mounth Road (a track high in the hills), which contours west of Mount Keen (939 metres), which leads into Glen Mark. But that would have been an extra day, if not two. Perhaps if anyone knows this area they can let me know.
I stopped for a sit down lunch at Banchory, then continued, arriving in Aberdeen mid-afternoon. Of course I had to find my way to the sea (this is a Coast to Coast !), and got there, and got the camera out to take a photo or two. I had a road sweeper for company, who asked me where I was coming from. When I replied Oban he looked at me with a canny glint in his eye, being on guard and wary, and probably thinking I was some madman who had escaped from somewhere.
I didn't stay long for I needed to sort out my digs for the night. After washing and showering I went out for a celebratory meal, but feeling a bit of a twit entering a smart restaurant with my sidi shoes on, and my thermal vest ! And the following day - Friday - I and the bike got the train to Glasgow, then another one from there back to Oban.
All in all some very good riding, through wonderful country, but with a seriously bad bit from Gorton Bothy to Rannoch Forest. Total distance 202 miles. Road miles = 93 but quiet, Off-road =109 miles
Day 1 - Oban to Loch Tulla - 37 miles - 7:00 am to 4:30 pm
Road bits :- Oban to Taynuilt - 12 miles of very quiet minor road to meet the A85, then a mile on this before leaving it to cross the River Awe west of Inverawe House. Off-road for the next 24 miles to my camp about a mile from the A82. From the River Awe very scenic riding east of Loch Etive, going due east up Glen Kinglass, to eventually cross the West Highland Way, and take the track north of Loch Tulla.
Day 2 - Loch Tulla to Tomanbuidhe (North of River Tummel) - 38 miles - 9:00am to 5:30pm
Less than a mile on the A82, before turning off via Achallader, good track, then the horrendous non-existent track from Gorton to edge of Rannoch Forest. Excellent riding through the forest coming out at Bridge of Gaur, then about 20 miles of quiet road to where I camped at Tomanbuidhe.
Day 3 - Tomanbuidhe to camp east of Loch Tilt - 38 miles - 9:00am to 4:45pm
Should have been 2 miles of minor road, but I made the mistake of turning right out of the forest instead of left ! So it doubled. Then excellent riding through the Tummel Forest, emerging with some tricky navigation from Edintian to Blair Atholl, including single track through the heather. From Blair Atholl the magnificent Glen Tilt - about 12 miles of good track, then 4 miles of single including some very tricky sections.
Day 4 - Camp east of Loch Tilt to Glen Muick - 39 miles - 9:00am to 4:45pm
Off road to Linn of Dee, some 13 ? miles, then quiet road to Braemar ( 9 miles). Braemar to Bridge of Dee - 3 miles quiet road, then Ballochbuie Forest tracks for 6 miles, leaving Balmoral on good stony track south for 8 miles to my camp in Glen Muick.
Day 5 - Glen Muick to Aberdeen - 50 miles - 9:00am to 3:00pm
8 miles of good track then minor road to the B976, then road all the way to Aberdeen ( 42 miles)
Eric Robinson
Last Updated 22-11-2000
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