| Physical | Technical | Fun | Scenery | Singletrack | Rideability |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| *** | *** | **** | ***** | **** | *** |
The valleys of Eskdale and Duddon are, in my opinion, two of the most beautiful in the whole Lake District. Perhaps this is because 'relative lack of tourists' is one of the criteria by which I make this judgement, as these two valleys lack main roads, Gore Tex jacket shops, and dead poets' cottages that attract throngs of visitors to the other valleys. Neither valley even contains a lake, so they have remained relatively unspoilt and undisturbed on the southwestern edge of the national park.
Both valleys are undoubtedly extremely scenic, and luckily for mountain bikers contain more than their fair share of bridleways. Due to the volcanic geology of the Ennerdale, Wasdale & Eskdale region, many bridleways are boulder-strewn and unrideable and it is essential to stick to constructed routes to avoid frustration. Fortunately Eskdale contains many such packhorse and mine tracks, which allow easy offroad progress, through this wonderful corner of Cumbria.
The described route utilises a bridleway running almost the full length of Eskdale, an incomparable section of singletrack near Devoke Water, a five star descent into the Duddon, and links them all together with a not insignificant crossing of Harter Fell Col and a bare minimum of road. If it weren't for two particularly unpleasant sections (the section of felled forest by Harter Fell and the disgusting lane leading off the Devoke Water bridleway) this would be one of the best rides in the lakes. And amazingly, I've never spotted this ride in a guidebook or magazine - so it may well be published here for the first time.
Park at the bottom of Fell Lane (1 car space only), or in the Muncaster Castle car park (there may be a charge).
A continuous vehicle track, smooth enough for an ordinary car to drive along runs along the southern base of Muncaster Fell. Strangely, the first kilometre of this is neither legal footpath nor bridleway, and an alternative lower or higher route has to be taken. The higher route via Fell Lane is preferable as it affords a fine singletrack descent, whereas the lower bridleway via Low Eskholmes may cross a private golf course, but also includes a section of filthy lane en route.
Climb Fell Lane as a convenient warm up to the day. After the first minor descent, bear right at the fork in the rhododendrons, then right again onto the singletrack. The descent is die straight on a thin track, with excellent views of the lower Eskdale valley, and passes close to a curious church-tower like building. You'll soon join the main valley track where you bear left. The surface is flat and smooth - carry straight on, but beware of farm dogs as you pass through Muncaster Head farm. At the road turn left, then right immediately before the hump-backed bridge over the Esk.
This next section of bridleway is far more interesting than the easy track before it. The surface is a mixed bag of farm track, singletrack, forest track and even slick rock! Look out for the famed drop-off, in-amongst the first section of singletrack by the Esk. The scenery here is wonderful, both in the far vistas of the high fells and the immediately company of the river and woodlands. After crossing the Stanley Force track, cross the narrow bridge (wide enough for an MTB dependent on handlebar selection!) and into the field beyond. Keep high here, away from the river; otherwise you'll be forced into a short carry up the steep river banks.
Before too long you should pass by a copse of coniferous trees. Look carefully and you'll notice a clearing just a few rows of trees back. Take a short walk and you'll find the most amazing little lily pond hidden behind this screen of timber. In summer you get huge dragonflies buzzing around here. Next you pass through Low Birker farm, and descend to Penny Bridge. The Woolpack Inn is just a few yards over this bridge for refreshments, but the actual route heads right through Penny Hill farm. Swoop through the dips and fords of the next few fields, then after a precarious 'hanging' ford, drop sharp left through the woods and back to the road.
Turn right at (yet another) hump backed bridge, and follow the road onto the base of Hard Knott pass. Bear right directly after the cattle grid, over a minuscule footbridge and onto the open fell. This old mine track (which is amazing in descent) leads you easily at first across the flank of Harter Fell. The upper sections are most certainly unrideable, but there should be almost no carrying. The 'interesting' boggy section marks the summit of the pass, but unfortunately this is just a precursor to the damned awful section through the forest. Remnants of felling are mixed together with rocks and bog to provide an almost unwalkable, never mind unrideable few minutes of torture. You'll be glad when you reach the forest road end. Here you must decide on the sporting or coward's routes. The sporting route (turn right), which is only recommended in summer, runs directly parallel to Grassguard's Gill and provides some first class, slow, technical riding. Unfortunately, this is a very fine line, and riding skill / ground conditions may well result in it being a second-class walk. The coward's route (left on forest road) provides some first class, fast, easy riding with a lovely high-speed double bend to savour.
After both routes rejoin at Grassguard's farm, pass through the farmyard (ignoring coast to coast cycleroute signs) and take the farm track traversing above the Duddon Valley. Just as the track drops quickly toward some buildings, keep an eye out for a tiny BW marker post pointing through a gap in the wall to your left. This is one of the best descents in the Lakes (see also Castle Crag downhill on Borrowdale route), with a steep, rocky, switchback decent dropping steeply through the woods below the imposing Wallowbarrow crags. Just perfectly, the track is neither too steep, too rocky nor too switchback to spoil the fun. You might need the occasional dab, but this is one of the best, and little known downhills around. Even the ending is super, as the track passes through Wallowbarrow farm's garden.
Keep on the surfaced farm road, until you reach the main valley road. You may wish to double-back a mile or so for refreshments at the Newfield Inn in Seathwaite, but the route continues straight on down the valley.
At the first road junction on the right, take the Biker Fell road straight up the improbably steep and infamous "Traveller's Rest" hairpin bends. Once out of the trees the road levels out. Keep at eye open for the left hand turn into Woodend farm. Ride straight through the farmyard and follow the vehicle track over the rise until you reach Devoke Water. The track along this tarn is fun at first, but the latter stages degenerate into an unpleasant morass. Head for the upright post on the rise at the end of the tarn, as this is where the real fun starts.
From this natural vantage point overlooking half of West Cumbria, a thin grassy track leads down toward the coast. It may be boggy at first but before too long some incredible grassy tracks through the bracken develop. If it doubt, keep to the higher, right hand ones, as these are dryer and faster. They twist and turn fantastically, barely a tyre's width, with not a tussock or rock to disturb your flow. Give it a blast! I had an 80° head angle and half an inch of travel due to a bust suspension fork, and I'll swear it improved the ride!
After passing Barnscar the fun is over big style. First you'll need to cross the boggy field to your right (use the recently resurfaced footpath and not the quagmire bridleway - signs request horses to do so, so in the interests of erosion I'd apply that to bikes too). Then the worst, most stinking boggy nightmare of a track leads you toward the road. This sections tries very hard to almost ruin the whole route, but the very last section of track is solid and fast, and compensates a little for the discomfort above. Go straight through the concrete track in the centre of the farmyard, and onto the A595 road home. The last climb from the Esk to Mucaster being a particularly nasty sting in the tail - make sure you leave enough energy in reserve and carry a rear LED if you plan on finishing your ride towards dusk as this is a busy & narrow trunk road.
Total Distance - 41.7km (25.9 miles)
Duration - 4.25 hours
Map - Harvey Maps SuperWalker 1:25 000 South West
Modifications possible to this route:
Last Updated 24-06-2007
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