Lochaber is famed for its high mountains and remote valleys. Ben Nevis, whose summit is the highest point in these Isles is but one of the score of mountains in the area that eclipse Snowdon in height, yet the area is cut by deep, wide valleys.
On studying a road atlas, the only obvious lines of communication are the spectacular A82 road, carrying traffic from Glasgow to Fort William and the scenic West Highland Railway. The only other invasion of tarmac in an area larger than most English counties is the long tentacle of singletrack road running the 25 miles from Tummel Bridge to Rannoch Station. This area is, however, criss-crossed by a network of tracks. The Road to The Isles, the old drove route from the Hebrides to the cattle market at Crieff crosses the grain of the land from north to south, skirting the edge of Rannoch Moor and there are several old paths running through the valleys from east to west. More modern tracks related to deer stalking and hydro-electric power and a few military roads complete a network of tracks just waiting to be linked up into a big ride.
From perusing maps, hunting down descriptions in print and online and bits and pieces of knowledge picked up from walking the hills in this area, I came up with a big route worthy of the big wildness we were going to cross. In August of last year myself and three friends, Debs, Andy and George set out to ride it.
We stayed at Aite Cruinnichidh (OS41, 298891) near Roy Bridge on the Friday night and got an early start on the Saturday morning. After all, we had a train to catch 30 miles away and had no real idea what lay between us and it. The only significant stretch of road, from the hostel to Fersit provides a gentle warm-up and by far the longest stretch of tarmac of the weekend.
At Fersit we picked up our first off-road section that would take us over the hill into Strathossian. This was our first stretch of the Road to the Isles which would involve us in a love-hate relationship for the rest of the day. It started well for most of us after we found the right track, though George managed to fall into the slimiest, stinkiest green manure puddle less than ten minutes after leaving the grey stuff. A bit of granite slickrock and a technical climb took us to the edge of a plantation (OS41, 378776), after which the track deteriorated gradually until we were left with a carry over tussocky grass onto the open hillside.
There things improved slightly, though what looked like inviting singletrack from a distance showed itself to be crossed by numerous gullys in the peat on closer inspection. The descent to Strathossian was in a sunken track beside a collapsed drystone wall, rock-strewn and sketchy. Given where we were and what we had left to do we took it easy on this bit!
The main track that runs through Strathossian could be mistaken for a highway outside Western Europe, and though a bit dull, it afforded us rapid progress to Corrour Lodge. Only an encounter with a herd of highland cattle slowed us down. From the expensively renovated Corrour Lodge, reason for the existence of the track we had just ridden, we headed round the south side of the Loch and aimed for the Youth Hostel which relies on a steady stream of foreign tourists and Munro baggers from the station, a mile or so away and out of sight.
From here we headed south, riding and pushing in equal measure up a wet, peaty track to Peter’s Rock (OS42, 393669) and picking up the Road to the Isles again. This was strangely reminiscent of the section from Fersit to Strath Ossian, though it flowed better as more of the gullies were rideable with a strong front wheel lift and a bit of luck. The high point just beyond the long-since burnt out ruins of Corrour Old Lodge (OS42, 407647 and once a strong contender for the highest continuously inhabited house in Britain) inevitably leads to a descent. And what a descent – a stunning fast grassy track, almost free of peat rills and spoilt only by slowing down to take in the view (!) spits you out on the Rannoch road in no time at all.
2.5km of tarmac takes you to Rannoch Station for a well-earned pint at the Moor of Rannoch Hotel or a visit to the teashop at the station. Unfortunately for us, both were closed. The hotel staff had gone to Perth for the day and the tealady was ill. A couple of hours to kill at Rannoch Station is not an enticing possibility but missing the train is even worse, so despite the mild temptation to go exploring we did the decent thing and slept on the hotel lawn until they would give us beer.
A swift couple of pints in the pub and then off to catch the train. It came about five minutes after the midges descended. If you’re wondering why we’re getting the train, have a look at an arial photo of Rannoch Moor. Perhaps the track through the plantation by Loch Laidon to Black Corries Lodge looks enticing, but Andy had walked it late in a dry summer and gone waist-deep in peat bog in places. Besides, the train would take us to Bridge of Orchy where we knew a pint of Deuchars IPA and decent food awaited us. Their bunkhouse might not be the most salubrious and the secure bike storage is a rack in the carpark so bring a lock and a couple of cables, but it’s fairly cheap, the food and beer is good and there’s nothing else for 10 miles in either direction….
After an early breakfast we packed up the Camelbaks and plonked our behinds on saddles. As yesterday we warmed up on tarmac, cruising round the shore of Loch Tulla through some Caledonian Pine remnants to Forest Lodge (OS50, 270423). This was our first meeting with the West Highland Way, easily the most popular long distance footpath in Scotland. There is a stretch climbing over the hill from Bridge of Orchy to Victoria Bridge, but cycling is discouraged and it looks a bit steep for the first mile of a fifty mile day. Despite the passage of thousands of boots a year it’s well made and in fine fettle. The track climbs gently for the best part of 1000 feet to a high point of 450m. The views are out of this world, stretching across the bowl of Rannoch Moor to the cone of Schiehallion in the far distance. Another splendid descent brings the Glencoe mountains into view, crowned by Buachaille Etive Mor. If you see just one view in Scotland at sunset on a clear winters’ day and that view is the Buachaille from the west and you’ll die happy. Today, as on most days, she was half-cloaked in mist, but still splendid. In no time at all we were at the Kingshouse Hotel, visiting the walker’s bar round the back and piling into tea and lemon cake.
After legging it out the Kingshouse and onto the bikes before the midges could get us, we were briefly back on tarmac before the most strenuous stretch of the West Highland Way, The Devil’s Staircase. Here the path zig-zags steeply up the hillside to escape Glencoe. This has been the end of many charity bed-pushes and three legged attempts on the WHW, but a steady carry for half an hour put us at 550m above sea level, the Mamores spread out splendidly ahead of us and a fabled descent awaiting us. There are a few level sections and a couple of counterclimbs, but 9km distant and ½ a km below us lay Kinlochleven. The wide drains on the first section demand caution as a badly timed hop could wreck a wheelrim and leave you stranded but after that it’s downhill all the way. Fast in places, technical in others, pick the lines carefully, back off adjusters on closed discs and get ready to make the sort of “weeeeeeeeeeeeee” noises you made as a kid when your dad took the stabilisers off your bike for the first time. The hydro station (OS41, 202604) comes far too soon. The best bit is over here but there’s still 300m of height to loose on reasonable tracks. The bends are tight, the hills steep and there’s likely to be walkers about so keep your speed in check. Eventually things will level off by the old aluminium smelter, from here follow the WHW signs into the village centre, pick a pub and fill your bellies as there’s nowhere else to eat until the end.
The problem with a monster downhill is that you invariably have to go up afterwards. From here the immediate destination is the remote bothy at Meanach (OS41, 686266). Another very short spell on tarmac brings you to the surfaced track up to Mamore Lodge (OS41, 187629). The higher we climbed, the better the views got. The Aggy Ridge on the right, Loch Leven and the Pap of Glencoe behind and the unrelenting climb ahead. Beyond the hotel, we passed the stalker’s cottage and left tarmac behind yet again. The track keeps climbing, getting increasingly bumpy as it levels off and carries you along the shores of Loch Eilde Mor and Beag (Big and Little Loch of the Hind, respectively). The sting in the tail is the last, incredibly rocky, section that undulates over and weaves round drumlins, with Meanach appearing when we’d almost given up hope of ever seeing it. We paddled across the river and with a quick push through tussock and bog we were at the bothy. Take the opportunity to fill your face away from the midges as the hard work of the day is about to start.
Meanach is only about 7km from the Lairig Leacach bothy (OS41, 283737) but the link is a rough path over a 590m bealach, the highest point of the weekend. This stretch is basically a push & carry and took a little short of two hours to complete. There is some disjointed riding to be had but most of the way up and a lot of the way down you’ll be walking. When the bothy appears in view it’s still a good twenty minutes away. Console yourself with the splendid isolation, the views of the surrounding mountains and the promise of the descent into Glen Spean. Have a peak in the bothy, ride out the gentle ascent to the top of the pass and fly down the hill on a reasonable track, over some rock slabs and screech to a halt when confronted with something you haven’t seen in over forty miles. A gate. Amazing, eh?
From Corriechoille, follow the Landrover track eastwards towards Monessie, jinking through a field at Insh and climbing high above the gorge. A steep descent took us to the bridge at GR 299810, thankfully still intact. From here a quick climb up to the main road, and in a couple of minutes took us back to our hostel. Never have I been so pleased to see my car!
Equipment
It’s a big exposed route with little opportunity for escape if things turn nasty. If you’re even considering riding it you’ll know what you need to take. You won’t pass a bike shop all weekend so use a bit of common sense – don’t mess around with the bike just before you go, make sure your steed is in fine fettle and carry a few likely spares between you. The route is on Landrangers 41, 42 and 50. The train takes you onto 51 but that can stay at home unless you really don’t trust the driver!
Ride Direction
The ride is definitely best done clockwise to get the nice drop to Rannoch Station, the splendid views down Glencoe and the long descent on the Devil’s Staircase to Kinlochleven.
Accomodation
Is available at Glen Spean (Aite Cruinnichidh hostel, 01397 712315, B&Bs and hotels), Corrour (SYHA), Rannoch Station (Hotel), Bridge of Orchy (hotel with bunkhouse, 01838 400208), Kingshouse (Hotel and wild camping nearby, 01855 851259, www.Kingy.com ) and Kinlochleven (hostels, hotels and B&Bs).
Trains
In summer, there are 4 trains a day from Rannoch to Bridge of Orchy from Monday to Saturday and three on Sunday. Bikes should be booked on in advance with Scotrail (08457 550033) though each train will take at least eight bikes. Last summer they ran at about 9am, 2pm, 6pm and 8pm. If you miss your train you’re in a lot of trouble...though you could always try to pick it up at Corrour if things go horribly wrong early in the day.
Start and end points
I did this ride with friends from Aberdeen so we met in Glen Roy and overnighted in Bridge of Orchy. This left us with a short Saturday and a long Sunday. From the south, I’d suggest leaving cars at either the Kingshouse or Bridge of Orchy. Wild camping is available behind the Kingshouse hotel for cheapskates but rooms aren’t that much more than a B&B would be. The Aite Cruinnichidh bunkhouse comes highly recommended and the food at the Glen Spean Lodge across the road is excellent.
Weather
It’s the west of Scotland and “if you don’t like the weather wait five minutes” is a local saying. It’s definitely a summer route, I’d suggest May-June time as the days are longer, the midges are usually less abundant and there’s been a while for the ground to dry a bit after the snow has gone. We were very lucky, only getting drenched in the last hour after Lairig Leacach bothy but the midges were out in force for most of the weekend. The nuisance factor of midges is incredible though their bites don’t do a lot to most people.
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Last Updated 24-06-2007
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