If you like riding empty and desolate places then this is the route for you. The meat of the route involves a long moorland crossing on faint tracks, followed by a wonderfully steepening grassy descent over the last six kilometres. The area is desolate, and is one of those places where you need to trust your compass first, then your map and finally your sense of direction. The nearest village to the start is Rhandirmwyn, about seven miles north of Llandovery. Llandovery lies on the A40, about halfway between Brecon and Carmarthen. There is plenty of accommodation in the area.
In Rhandirmwyn itself beds can be had in the Royal Oak Inn, www.smoothhound.co.uk/hotels/royaloak.html and there is also a Caravan Club campsite beside the Tywi at SN 778437. Camping can be found across the river from Gallt y Bere, at SN 772 459, and there is seriously bike friendly accommodation and a huge welcome at Llanerchinda, www.cambrianway.com/Llanerchindda/llanerchinddahome.html There is also loads of B+B in Llandovery, contact the TIC.
WARNING- the area is very empty indeed, and local farmers have been caught out overnight or in misty conditions. Tracks and paths shown on the map may not actually exist. Crossing Mynydd Mallaen safely may well require a compass; it will certainly require a map and the ability to use it well. There are few landmarks.
Start at the FE picnic site on the back road between Cilycwm and Rhandirmwyn at SN422 766. Ride 6km down to the road and turn right southwest towards Cilycwm to warm up.
As you enter Cilycwm there is a minor road junction (at SN739 396) where a right (west) turn needs to be made, still on tarmac. Go up the lane, round the tight left hand corner and past the ancient ruin at SN743 397 with its memorial plaque set into the wall. In less than a mile you should meet with a junction, with a gate on the northern (Right hand) side of the road. There is a sign on the gate trying to discourage 'vehicles' from using the track.
Off road now, through the gate and up the ever steepening grassy track. Head on up the ridge to the col at the corner of the forest at SN735 413. The view is stupendous- and look at the ridge on the opposite side of the valley and imagine riding down it.
The climb up to the col above Cwm Merchon
At the col, turn left (west) and follow the track easily up and over Rhiw Cilgwyn and then on to Rhyd Galed, (translation = Hard Ford) SN713 419.
Dropping down to Rhyd Galed, Mynydd Mallaen.
Stay on the main track, and you will reach the ford, Rhyd Ddu (SN713 431) in a couple of nicely rolling kilometres. It is deeper than Rhyd Galed, but easily ridden. Rhyd Ddu translates from Cymraeg to English as ‘Dark Ford’.
I once worked for the Welsh Office as a cartographer. When the Welsh Office vegetation surveying team visited the area in 1986 they were asked by the landowner if they could ride ponies- it is easier on horseback up there than it is in a Landrover. I've recently talked to one of the surveyors, and she has a recollection of the area being full of a LOT of Mollinia sp. (Purple Moor Grass) the big tussocky stuff that clogs your rear mech and breaks your ankles. She is not wrong. In the end aircraft surveyed the area.
Five hundred boggy metres north west of Rhyd Ddu the forest edge is met at Rhiw Garegog, a sheltered spot for a snack.
The track becomes very vague from here until Maen Bach.
Follow the highest ground northeast for a couple of kilometres towards the ancient stones at Crugiau Merched, 459m, SN722 455. According to the map the path heads east about 600m before Crugiau Merched. On the ground you will possibly find that you have lost any path that there may or may not be well before then. Just head up hill as best you can towards Crugiau Merched and when confronted by an even wetter area, head over to the standing stone at Maen Bach SN731 451. The map shows the right of way running 200m south of the standing stone. In fact the path, such as it is, runs right past the standing stone itself. The path is clearer now, and nice moorland singletrack soon leads to the next standing stone, Maen Hir. Spot 448, SN736 447.
Kim approaching Maen Bach
From Maen Hir there follows six kilometres of ever steepening grassy singletrack down to the road. Fast, smooth and twisting but not over technical, the path is a pure delight to ride, not dissimilar to some alpine rides. The view down to Rhindirmwyn and beyond to the Brecon Beacons is superb. The final two kilometres down through the rocks, forest and meadows is too good to describe.
Then turn right, back to the car.
Last Updated 16-08-2002
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