Switzerland & Italy – Forcola Pass and Val Mora Loop from Santa Maria
By Lloyd Bower
|
| Physical | Technical | Fun | Scenery | Singletrack |
Rideability |
| ***** | **** | **** | ****** | **** |
**** |
This circular ride offers absolutely stunning mountain scenery, some super singletrack. It has a killer 1125m road climb up the Umbrail Pass, but the descents are all off road, and there’s also a couple of cross border crossings to boot.
It must rank as probably the best off road ride I’ve ever done.
The ride starts from Santa Maria in southwest Switzerland close to the Italian border. The area offers some of the best singletrack mountain bike riding in the Alps and is a hidden gem.
Like most mountain singletrack in the Alps it has to be earned by a long ascent from the valley, in this case on the Umbrail Pass, so the route calls for a decent level of fitness!
Distance & Time
Approximately 37miles all off road with the exception of the Umbrail road pass, though even this a unsurfaced section! Approx 1900m of ascent.
Time, reckon on between 6 and 8 hours.
Map & Formalities
Swiss mapping is amongst the best in the world, the Landeskart des Schweiz series is the equal of OS Maps. 5017 Unterengadin, Engiadina Bassa 1:50000 is the one you will need.
The route is actually detailed on the Bike Explorer Unterengadin Map, which is 1:80000 scale. It is also an excellent map for other route ideas, including the circular Nationalpark Bike Marathon – only 135km with 3743m of ascent!
Once off road there are no great navigational challenges, signposting is typically excellent. However this route goes to 2755m, so go well prepared for any eventualities.
Many locals speak embarrassingly good English, but knowledge of German and Italian over the border would certainly be an advantage.
Don’t forget the passport.
Refreshments
There are several restaurants scattered alongside the two Italian reservoirs – Lago di Cancano and Lago di S.Giacomo di Fraele, which would work out at half distance if the route is started from Santa Maria.
Don’t rule out the water bottle as yesterday’s retro gear, in the Alps you’ll be needing to keep well hydrated. There are usually plenty of mountain water taps, and it’s much easier and quicker to refill with a bottle. Also you might well appreciate 2kg less weight on the back.
Accommodation and Food
There is an official Swiss Youth Hostel at Santa Maria, alternatively the Hotel Stelvio is branded as a bike hotel and offers reasonably priced accommodation. There are also limited B&B’s in Santa Maria and Valchava.
Foodwise, check whether the small pizza restaurant on the main road through Santa Maria has re-opened, it did offer good priced food & wine, but was under scaffolding when we visited in July 2003. There are limited other budget options in Santa Maria, or walk back up the road to the pizza restaurant in Valchava, it’s below the main restaurant and allows you to design your own toppings – note it is closed on sunday’s.
Access
Santa Maria is not on any main rail route, and the only feasible access by road.
Route Directions
The route can be started from Santa Maria, and that means a killer 1400m climb (1100m on road) before you begin any significant descent. We drove the car two thirds of the way up, this of course did mean a tough road climb finish to the day, but did leave plenty of energy to enjoy the main bit of the ride.
For those keen to avoid even this ascent, it may be possible to hitch a lift on the local post bus, try enquiring locally.
- Starting from Santa Maria immediately turn right in the middle of the village and take the signposted Umbrail\Stevlio Pass.
- Finally after 1100m of ascent, cross the Swiss border. It was unmanned and there were no formalities when we crossed, but have your passport handy just incase.
- 100 or so metres after crossing the Swiss border and before reaching the Italian equivalent take the clear single track off to the right.
- After a very short flat section you begin to gradually gain ascent and on the singletrack as it contours on the side of the main hill. There is a significant drop off to the left, so you may decide to stop and push on some sections, but the scenery is simply awesome.
- Shortly after a crossing a small gully the ground begins to open out as you approach the Forcola Pass, which was fought over in the First World War.
- The last couple of hundred yards before the pass will be a carry, but it certainly worth it as you top out on the pass. The views in all directions stunning, and the remnants of the war fortifications plain to see.
- Descending shortly after crossing the pass, there’s a choice of routes. I’d strongly recommend taking the right track. The left track regains some height, put more significantly has a danger ! sign marked on the map. Don’t take the ! signs too lightly the drops on the track when viewed from lower down looked quite scary, and the previous year we ended up walking a similarly marked stretch of track from a German route guide near Tiefencastle!
- The right hand track passes a couple of old Italian barrack ruins and the descent is the most part super, before finishing in a fairly loose long double track section.
- Eventually after 800m of descent you’re spitted out next to Lago di Cancano, and unless you’re midweek a full battalion of weekend Italian Fiat Puntos and the like. Yes, this might be a dead end dirt road a 1950m, and nearly 10 miles from the nearest
- Tarmac but this doesn’t stop the typical Italian driver taking is car up steep gravel single track road!
- Negotiating this traffic, follow the dirt road on the right hand side of the reservoirs.
- Initially there are plenty of ‘no cars beyond this point’ signs that are ignored, before a locked barrier prevents most going further, unless you happen to be friends with the key holder!
- There is short tunnel alongside the first reservoir this can be ignored by taking single track to the left of it. I managed to lead us straight into the tunnel, and was shortly thankful that a few cars (obviously friends of the key holder) were following shortly behind and lit up the tunnel.
- There is a small restaurant (which also offers accommodation) between the two very blue reservoirs, and it’s ideal for refueling.
- Continue pass the second reservoir including a short singletrack section before taking a track to the right on the corner of the reservoir towards the Pass di Fraele.
- This starts off as a defined vehicle track crossing the glacial valley remains before entering forest (don’t be too surprised to find the Italian motorist has taken his car this far),
- Soon after a small clearing is reached. This is the Italian\Swiss border, a tiny stone marker with I on one side and S on the other is the only indication.
- Once on the Swiss side the route becomes single track and follows the river upstream towards the Val Mora valley. The scenery here is superb, the riding on the sweet singletrack is even better and you barely notice that is slightly uphill.
- Approximately a mile after crossing the river on small wooden bridge, the valley opens up again and there will be cattle grazing on the open land besides the stream.
- A further 60m climb and the now grassy vehicle track joins the main unsurfaced track in the Val Mora valley.
- Turn right here and continue in the now wide-open valley slowly gaining height to reach a highpoint of 2234m marked as Doss Radond.
- Finally from here it a 850m descent, steep in places, on forest road all the way back to finally meet the Offenpass road just before Santa Maria.
- Turn right here and return to the village. If you started the day part way up the Umbrail pass, don’t recuperate too long before starting on the nasty climb to retrieve it!
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